The Essence of Varanasi

Have you ever noticed how different forms of media often claim to represent, or accurately describe, the "essence" of something? Perhaps it's kind of obscure, and I won't blame you if you haven't made this observation. But I have, and maybe I'm just realizing it now because it's an India thing. I suppose I've seen this device used most often in books; for example, I just bought one that claims to be a consice overview of the "essence of Hindu religion" (I believe I mentioned in my last blog that I'm trying desperately to get a fingerhold on the theology / ideology of this intricate faith system). However, I doubt that it will succeed in this task, just as I will certanly utterly fail in describing the essence of Varanasi, the city that I've spent the last two days growing to love. But I'll make a doomed attempt anyways.

As you may already be aware, Varanasi is situated in the central-west portion of north India, alongside the mighty River Ganges. Indians call it the City of Shiva, a deity who is part of the triumvirate of major Hindu incarnations of God, along with Vishnu and Brahma (I'm sure that was horrible sentance structure / word choice, a tendency that unfortunately plagues this blog. My apologies.) It's a major destination for pilgrims from throughout the country, and has an indescribably spiritual air about it. The many rituals that take place here 24/7, 365 days a year revolve largely around the Ganges, which is considered the holiest river in India. An interesting example of a ritual is the "body burning" that I noticed soon after I arrived at my hostel, which looks out over a series of huge stone "ghats", or steps, that lead down to the river. Don't worry, the bodies are quite dead (at least to my best knowledge). Depending on one's caste status while they were alive, along with numerous other factors, they may qualify for a cremation ceremony after they pass away. After their cadavers are decorated with a variety of spices, oils and flowers, the former Hindus are taken down to the shore of the Ganges, where they are burned in a ceremony that is attended by friends and family. A good number of these processions are usually happening at the same time, all in a condensed section of the Ghats that is designated for this purpose. As this was happening pretty well right outside of my room, I was almost instantly welcomed by various chants, bell ringing, etc., as well as the surprisingly sweet smell of the cremation fires (remember that the bodies are thourougly "groomed", if you will, before they are burned). In conjunction with the other religious proceedings that occur on the riverbank, such as the constant meditation songs of devotees camped out along the Ghats, this creates an altogether surreal atmosphere.

The uniqueness of Varanasi extends beyond the riverbank, especially within the "Old City", which is composed of countless narrow alleyways that house various little shops and religious shrines, most of which occupy no more space than a hole in a wall. These alleyways, which are further characterized by clotheslines strung from building to building and frequent "cow-jams" (the alleys are often not much wider than the beasts themselves!), constitute a realization of the images that I had of India before I arrived (I'd love to post pictures but, as has constantly been the case, the web connection is simply not fast enough. I'll continue searching for an adequate portal from which to satisfy this blog's dire need for visuals).

Most of my time has been taken up by simlply exploring the city, whether by foot, boat, or bicycle-driven rickshaw (a first for me!). Today, however, the group mixed it up a little by taking a trip out to Sarnath, the location of the Buddha's first sermon. As well as visiting the exact spot where this specific lecture was delivered, we saw a number of other temples that have been erected by adherents to other country's forms of Buddhism. As I understand it, in the centuries after its inception, Buddhism assumed a number of different forms the varied from region to region, all of which have been described under the broad banner of "Maharana" (spelling?) Buddhism. This is in contrast to the "Theravada" sect of the religion, which is much more strict in it's adherence to the Buddha's specific teachings. I think the temples from the different countries represent the adaptions of Buddhism in the respective countries. I'm very likely off on this one - I really want to learn more about this religion, as well as Hinduism.

Time to sign off - have to visit the post office, and then head off to a dinner that's been arranged for a few of us in the group, by a well-connected fellow traveller from San Fran. Hope everyone up in Canada is enjoying the stiffening weather (hehe)! Phir milenge (until later)!

- Tom